Ringinator saw blades are custom made in the USA. They start off as a thin sheet of high strength steel. Then a high powered laser cuts it into small discs. They are heat treated, cleaned, and then the teeth are cut into them. Finally they are inspected to make sure they meet our rigorous specifications.
"A microscope view of a dull vs sharp blade."
How long will they last?
Depending on the material being cut blade life will vary. For optimal blade life you need to use the correct RPM and cutting speed for a given material. For instance: Aluminum cuts at 1100rpm , but trying to cut steel that fast would only yield a few rings before the blade is dull as a coin.
Using the correct speed and lubrication for the given material a blade (on average) lasts:
Aluminum: 30+ pounds
Titanium: 5+ pounds
Steels: 5-10 pounds
Copper based alloys: 20+ pounds
Niobium: 8+ ounces
This means that with a fresh blade, I can expect to cut this much material before it gets so dull that I need to use a new blade. Your mileage may vary due to the hardness/temper of the alloy you are using, along with your coil feeding technique.
Another important factor is lubrication. A blade is heat treated to stay very hard and sharp. Raising the temperature of the blade ruins that treatment, and makes it go dull extremely fast. It can also cause material to weld to the teeth. To avoid this the Ringinator uses a pump to provide a constant flow of lubricant or coolant to the blade. This keeps it cool and helps it cut better by removing the heat, reducing friction, and clearing away the cutting dust.
Due to Post Office regulations on shipping liquids and oils, we do not sell or ship cutting fluids or lubricants.
However, here is a selection of items to choose from on Amazon. Disclaimer: Use the following links and I get a tiny commission.
The most user friendly for people making jump rings is the water soluble cutting oil. After all your rings are cut you can just rinse them with water and all the oil washes away. This is great for people that don't own a tumbler, and it keeps the mess to a minimum. Most fluid comes as a concentrate that is diluted 20:1 with water. A 1 gallon container of concentrate makes 20 gallons of fluid, and that will last you a long time.
Alternatives that customers have successfully used include liquid dish soap, candle wax, bars of soap, and vegetable oil.
Which way should they point?
The teeth must face the coil while its turning and cutting.
Like: /| /| /| /| /| /| ====coil=====
Not: |\ |\ |\ |\ |\ |\ ====coil=====
There is also a little arrow printed on the blade showing the proper direction.
Coils are just long pieces of straight wire wound into round springs. Because they are springs this can cause small problems when cutting. As the coil is cut it wants to unwind, to release torsional stress that built up from being coiled. This unwinding can push the blade aside, and make an off-center cut. For the straightest and best possible cut, you need to let your coils "age" for a few hours after you make them. This lets all the residual stresses in the metal equalize.
Saw cutting metal produces fine metal dusts.
Metal dust can be toxic to your health. It is a severe respiratory irritant when breathed in. And very painful if it gets in the eyes.
Always wear a respirator and safety glasses when saw cutting metal.
Using liquid cooling, almost all dust is captured in the liquid. Following the simple rule of wearing a dust mask and safety glasses will keep you safe. Your safety is in your hands.
There are many ways to make coils, I will not cover them here. Search the internet and you will find them.
However, this is a good starting point:
This method is practicable in rod/coil lengths up to three feet. You need a little room to maneuver in, both front and back.
Let your viewers know that while the method works with both end-slot mandrels and notch-and-washer mandrels as I drew, that you would not be using both wire-anchoring methods at once. I got asked about that a time or two; I just threw that in there to give some idea of the possibilities.
Anchoring in the end slot builds the coil up in the opposite direction from anchoring the wire end at the drill chuck, and this gives the opposite "screw-pitch" to the coil. Goes around the other way, even though the mandrel rod is turning in the same direction. By flipping the drill into REV, you can make the pitch go the same way -- though it helps then to feed the wire from the other end of the feedblock, from the righthand end. Not too many people take this kind of trouble. the method works with both end-slot mandrels and notch-and-washer mandrels as I drew, that you would not be using both wire-anchoring methods at once.
I throw around a little acronym with that drawing: the GROPP, the Golden Rule Of Painless Powerwinding, which goes:
Never touch wire when the drill is turning.
Warmest regards, and best of luck on your endeavor,
Calculating Pulley Speeds
In order to achieve precise speeds in order to cut a large range of metals, the use of pulleys is the easiest way. There is a simple way of determining the speed if you know the speed of the motor and the diameter of the drive pulley and the driven pulley. You simply take the motor speed, or RPM's (rotations per minute) and multiply that by the diameter of the pulley mounted on the motor, or "drive pulley". Then divide the product by the diameter of the cutter pulley, or "driven pulley":
(Speed of drive pulley • Diameter of drive pulley) ÷ Diameter of driven pulley
Example: My motor is 1725rpm, and has a 2" pulley mounted to it, and that is running to a 5" pulley. How fast is the 5" pulley rotating? To find out we use the above formula.
1725 • 2" = 3450
3450 ÷ 5" = 690
The 5" pulley is rotating at 690rpm.
Calculating Blade Speed
The blade rim speed, in ft/min (feet per minute), is determined by the blade diameter and the rotational speed, RPM (rotations per minute) of the blade.
ft/min = (blade dia. • 3.14 • RPM) ÷ 12
Example: 1 1/2" blade, 1400rpm
(1.5 • 3.14 • 1400) ÷ 12 = 550 ft/min
RPM = (12 • ft/min) ÷ (dia. • 3.14)
Example: 1 1/4" blade, want 100 ft/min
(12 • 100) ÷ (1.25 • 3.14) = 306RPM
Cutting speeds for Jewelers slitting saws.
60 - 75
Med. Strength Ti Alloys.
40 - 55
|Hi Strength Ti Alloys||25 - 40|
|Regular Stainless Steel||60 - 75|
|Hi Strength Stainless Steel||25 - 40|
|Galvanized Steel||100 - 150|
|Regular Carbon Steels||80 - 100|
|Niobium||80 - 120|
80 - 100
80 - 100
100 - 150
100 - 150
450 - 600
Quick reference table of suggested rpm speeds. Use detailed table farther below for exact speeds.
(SFM = ft/min)
|Material||1. Mild Steel
|1. Medium Tensile Steels
2. Cast Iron
3. Hard Brass & Bronze
|1. High Tensile Steel
|1. Tool Steels
2. Medium Strength Stainless Steel
3. Medium Strength Titanium Alloys
|1. High Strength Stainless Steels
2. High Strength Titanium Alloys
|1. Aluminum & alloys.
SFM 100 - 150
SFM 80 - 100
SFM 60 - 75
SFM 40 - 55
SFM 26 - 40
SFM 450 - 600
The speeds given above are for the brand of saw blades we sell. Depending on the quality and manufacturer of your blades, results may differ.
How to use this table:
Find the desired ft/min figure you want in column 1. Find the outer diameter of the blade you are using in column 2, 3, 4, 5. Scroll down to see what RPM you need to have in order to get that ft/min with your blade.
Example: To cut titanium at 100ft/min, with a 1.5" blade, it needs to turn at 255rpm.